Pigmentation spots: why they keep coming back

Pigmentation spots are one of the most frequent questions I get in the treatment room. Usually, someone walks in with a product that has been sitting in the cupboard for a while and the thought: it doesn't really help. Nine times out of ten, that's not the product's fault.

What is actually happening in your skin

In your epidermis, there are pigment cells that produce melanin. This is a protective mechanism: in response to light, heat, or irritation, they produce more pigment to shield the deeper layers. If those cells work too enthusiastically or unevenly, you get spots instead of an even skin tone.

The cause varies. Sunlight is the biggest factor. Hormones play a role, for example during pregnancy or with the pill. And pigment can also remain after an inflammation: a pimple you’ve been picking at for too long often leaves behind a brown spot.

Why one product is rarely enough

You need to address pigment from two sides at once. On one hand, inhibition: ingredients that interfere with pigment formation. On the other hand, protection: daily sun protection, even in November, even if you are mostly indoors.

That second half is almost always underestimated. Anyone who uses a serum but no SPF is effectively doing the same as trying to fill a bucket with a hole in the bottom. You are removing what is there, while new pigment is being added in the meantime. That is the main reason why people think their product isn't working.

How long does it take?

Think in months, not weeks. A skin cell takes about four weeks to renew itself, and pigment is often deeper than one layer. Working consistently for three to six months is normal. Take a photo before you start, in the same light and in the same place. Your skin changes slowly, and you don't notice slow changes in the mirror.

The mistake I see most often

Too much at once. Someone starts with vitamin C, an acid, a retinol, and a scrub, all in the same week. The skin gets irritated, and irritation is precisely one of the things that fuels pigment. This way, you are working against yourself.

Build it up slowly. Start with one active product, give it two to three weeks, and only then add something else. Sun protection is the only step that belongs in your routine from day one.

Where do you start?

With a cleanser that doesn't dry out your skin, a targeted product for the pigment, and an SPF that you enjoy applying every morning. The latter is more important than any of the three: you won't be using a sunscreen that is too sticky or too white for more than a week.

In the pigmentation collection, you will find the products I use for this, and under sun protection for the face, you can choose from the various textures.

Not sure what kind of pigment you have?

That makes a difference to your approach. Sun damage, hormonal pigmentation, and a spot after an inflammation do not behave the same way. Feel free to send me a message with a photo taken in daylight, and I will take a look. If you would like a more thorough assessment, you can book an intake at the institute.